Zion National Park- Springdale, UT

I recently read that Zion National Park may have to start limiting admission due to surging crowd numbers. I believe it. It is obscenely beautiful, and one of the most peaceful places on earth. It is impossible to return home without beautiful pictures, unless you just didn’t take any. Should everyone visit this park? Absolutely. But everyone does not need to do so during the three months of summer. Fall is an absolutely fabulous time to visit; hiking temperatures are perfect, and you will have many trails to yourself. At least more than you would have had during the summer in any event.

If at all possible, stay in one of the cabins inside the park. The little compound is absolutely surreal, and you will feel like you are on a movie set. Set in a valley, colorful rock walls surround and embrace you. Each cabin comes with a porch, fireplace, and easy access to the trials. Ours also came with a funky smell, but the windows open, so problem solved. Like the park, they are obscenely popular, so again go during off peak season, or plan well in advance.

If you stay outside the park gates, be prepared to take a shuttle during peak park season. Crowding at Zion is not a new thing, and for many years they have required you to leave your car outside the park, and shuttle to the various trails. If you have ever tried to visit a popular park, you know this is not a bad thing. It makes the park much less congested, and you waste less time waiting for a parking spot, leaving more for the trials.

You can, and should, drive the Zion-Mt. Carmel highway however. Built in the 1930’s to promote travel between Zion, Bryce and the Grand Canyon, it is a Civil Engineering marvel. From the park, the highway winds up Pine Canyon, then through a 1.1 mile tunnel, built with gallery windows which allow glimpses out of the Navajo sandstone cliffs you are traveling through.

The geology on this side of the park differs greatly from that found in Zion Canyon, but it is equally impressive. The colors and the textures of the sandstone impart an otherworldly feel, and the gentle slopes make for easy hikes.

Back on the canyon side, the landscape is punctuated with steep cliffs and narrow canyons. There are trails for just about everyone, just be honest with yourself about your ability. Many of the most stunning views are accessible only via difficult trails, with severe, fatal drop-offs. Yeah, I’m talking about you Angel’s Landing. For those leery of heights, The Narrows is a much better option.

Located at the far end of the park, at the terminus of the paved Riverside Walk trail, is the entrance to The Narrows. This informal trail requires wading, hiking, and swimming in the Virgin River, while outstanding scenery unfolds around you. Most people hike about 2 miles before doubling back, but for those so inclined you can hike up to Orderville Canyon without a permit. This is a bucket list trail, and is not to be missed. Or so I have been told.

On both occasions I have attempted to hike The Narrows, flash flood conditions existed, and the slot canyon could not be entered. Best laid plans do often go awry, and weather is an unpredictable wild card. You get what you get. It is extremely important to know the weather forecast and check with the rangers prior to attempting this hike, because you do not want to be surprised by a wall of water. Although I was bummed not to be able to hike The Narrows, it leaves something for the next visit. Which hopefully will be dry.

Even if you can’t hike The Narrows, there are several amazing trails waiting for you at Zion. A good easy warm up hike, close to the lodge, is the Emerald Pool trail. There are actually two trails, Lower and Upper, with a stop in the middle to see the precipice of the falls.

The falls may be just a trickle at times, but the colorful ledge and hanging gardens are not to be missed. Because it is an easy trail, go EARLY. Very early. This is easily accomplished if staying in either the cabins or the lodge, as the trailhead is only steps away from both. Which, not incidentally, is also why it is extraordinarily crowded later in the day.

The pool I saw was certainly not emerald, more olive, but it was a great hike nevertheless. Of course it was also a dreary gray day, filled with flash flood warnings, so perhaps under a cerulean sky it sparkles like gem. The surrounding views of course are stunning, and this will give you an excellent introduction to the park.

The Kayenta Trail connects the pools over to the The Grotto area, and is another relatively easy hike that provides sweeping views of the valley below. Again, the earlier you attack this trail, the more enjoyable it will be. For those that don’t plan on doing any extreme hiking, this is one of the best trails for sweeping views and panoramic pictures of the park.

At the Grotto you can catch a shuttle over to the Weeping Rock trail, where a short, but steep paved path leads to a verdant wonderland of hanging gardens and lush ferns. Water freely travels through this area’s sandstone layers, creating a weeping, wet environment. This moisture, along with shade, creates an ecologically distinct area filled with mosses, ferns, and columbines.

The erosive forces of water also created the overhang at the end of the trail, which is a refreshing spot to take in the view. From here, hiking gets a bit dicey for those who don’t enjoy heights, or have a fear of falling from them.

Weeping Rock is also the jumping on point for the Hidden Canyon Trail, which offers some of the greatest views in the park. In order to get to these vistas however, you must traverse a steep and increasingly narrow trail. The trail actually starts off quite pleasant, and remains so if you don’t look down. I foolishly did not believe the map when it warned this trail was not suited for those fearful of heights. This is a fact.

I know when to admit defeat, and after completing most of the trail, and taking several stunning pictures, I gave up. More accurately, I looked down, and that was a mistake. Gripped by fear, I instantly scurried to lower ground. Actually, I took painstakingly slow steps. I clearly survived, but in my mind it was touch and go. I saw others practically skipping to the top, so like much in life, it’s all mental. Maybe I’ll get hypnotized and try again.

At this point, call it a day. Go have a beer on the lodge patio, which if I had to guess, will be the odd weak Utah variety they like to serve there. I could be wrong though, because the beer garden was closed by the time we returned to the lodge, and of course there is no bar, again because it’s Utah. You can however order wine at the lodge restaurant, providing you are eating dinner as well. The food is actually pretty good, and the view from the second story deck would make up for it in any event. That said, there are excellent options in Springdale, so absolutely visit the restaurants outside the park.

So yeah, I get it. I get why Zion is so popular, and why it’s so crowded. But crowds are no fun, as anyone who has lockstepped up a packed trail can attest. They also damage fragile areas and promote erosion. Instead of everyone trying to visit during the three months of summer, spread it out a bit. Win for everyone. Fall offers perfect hiking weather, and a greater opportunity to appreciate the natural beauty of the area. And who doesn’t appreciate that.

 

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