Yellowstone National Park- WY,MT,ID

Older is definitely better when it comes to National Parks. Actually, they’re all amazing; however, the oldest park, Yellowstone, is an absolute wonderland. A vast and varied collection of fascinating geologic features, it is like no other place on Earth. In fact, it resembles an inhospitable and inhabitable planet in places; one with steaming vents and boiling baths. However, it is also a place of great diversity; stark beauty tempered with lush wetlands, raging rivers, and dramatic waterfalls. Add the architecturally outstanding Old Faithful Inn, and it might just be the perfect park.

Whatever amount of time you plan to spend at the park will not be enough. To really explore the park, you need at least a week. It is actually a bit overwhelming; the park is as vast as it is varied. The 2 million acre park is spread out over three states: Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. Established by Congress in 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed the law that established Yellowstone as the first National Park in the United States. Thirty years later President Roosevelt laid the cornerstone for the triumphal arch that bears his name at the park’s north entrance. This iconic arch, complete with its inscribed quote from the Organic Act, continues to greet visitors today as it did rail visitors over a century ago.

Today, Yellowstone is one of the country’s most popular parks, with over 4 million visitors each year. This was not always the case; the first year, the park’s remote location and rustic accommodations attracted less than 1000 visitors. That would all change when rail service was introduced to the area; Northern Pacific Railway was the first to offer service, with trains reaching the Gardiner, Montana entrance by 1902.

Practically at the north entrance gates, Mammoth Hot Springs’ travertine terraces are a thing of beauty. Formed when hot spring water cools and deposits calcium carbonate, the effect is eerily otherworldly. The area is stark for sure, almost supernatural. The panoramic views from the upper terrace are excellent, and contrast the harsh hot spring conditions with the surrounding hills.

If you arrive early enough in the day, slowly explore your way down the Grand Loop to the Old Faithful area, because everyone should stay at the lodge, at least for one night. For those arriving late in the day, drive directly there- it is over 50 miles from the north entrance to the inn. Although there are several hotels and cabins in the park, as well as camping options, you can’t beat Robert Reamer’s 1904 masterpiece. The rustic building made largely of lodgepole pines is without a doubt the most impressive of all the park service lodges.

Located just 1/8 of a mile from the famed geyser, the Old Faithful Inn manages to be unobtrusive. Constructed by the Northern Pacific Railroad to replace an earlier hotel that burned down, Reamer designed a lodge reminiscent of the rustic camps of the Adirondacks. It was positioned 90 degrees from Old Faithful, so the erupting geyser would be framed by the front porch. The steeply pitched roof also provided a viewing platform, which remains one of the most perfect places in the world to enjoy a cool beverage.

Inside, the soaring space is downright magical. You are immediately transported to a treehouse, complete with a “Crow’s Nest” that was once used by musicians, before people were concerned with safety. The stone fireplace in the center of the room features four main hearths, and offers some of the best seats in the house. Good luck securing one; the lobby is packed both day and night with guests and park visitors alike. Your best bet is very early in the morning, when the lobby is relatively deserted. Grab a coffee and walk the boardwalks of Upper Geyser Basin, that will also be quiet at this time, but not for long. This is one of the most popular places in the park, so take advantage of the lodge’s proximity, and tour this area first. Deserted, with steaming vents, this area feels almost post-apocalyptic, in the best possible way.

The Upper Geyser Basin is home to over 410 geysers and geothermal features, so you have a lot to see. So many geysers, so little time. Clearly you will not be able to see them all, but you can give it a good college try. They are all magnificent, but a quick search before your visit can give you an idea of what absolutely not to miss.

Dawn is also an excellent time to take in Old Faithful. Although not the largest or the tallest, it is the most reliable geyser, with over 1 million recorded eruptions. You are virtually guaranteed to see this geyser erupt, and it will be impressive. Thousands of gallons of boiling water erupt from the earth, shooting up to 185 feet. Eruptions last several minutes, and occur about every hour and a half. Just after daybreak, we watched the eruption alone, and it was absolutely worth leaving the warm bed.

It is only about a mile and half walk to Black Sand Basin from Upper Geyser Basin. Black Sand is a small area, but packs a big punch. One of the most stunning features is Emerald Pool, which true to its name sparkles like a gem.

From there, you really can’t go wrong wherever you go. It is all great. One option is to work your way over to the West Thumb Geyser Basin, with a stop at the Continental Divide. Home to Isla Lake, the lush wetland is absolute lily padded perfection. It is beyond tranquil, and stands in stark contrast to the desolate Geyser Hill.

In addition to having fabulous views of Lake Yellowstone, the West Thumb Geyser Basin is home to some of the park’s most spectacular features. The entire central basin is dotted with colorful pools and springs, with the lake acting as a backdrop.

Next, head over to the Lake Village area, stopping midway at the Natural Bridge hike. It will not be the most impressive natural bridge you have ever seen, but the 1.5 mile hike starts along the shores of the lake, and offers up some pretty impressive scenery. You may even see some wildlife in this area, including bears.

At this point you will be absolutely famished, and fortunately your next stop has a very nice restaurant. For historic hotel fans, make sure not to miss the dining room at the Lake Hotel. Originally built in 1891, the hotel was redesigned by Robert Reamer in 1903. It is a traditional Colonial Revival, and absolutely nothing like the Old Faithful Inn. The dining room offers expansive lake views, and the food was quite good, which is not always the case at park service restaurants. Although it is a bit fancy, it is still in a park, so your hiking attire is of no concern.

After lunch, work your way up to the Yellowstone Canyon area for some of the best scenery in the country. No exaggeration. The 24 mile Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is home to two waterfalls and several scenic overlooks. Oxidation of the iron rich soil creates a colorful canvas along the steep canyon walls.

Inspiration Point offers a sweeping view of the entire canyon, and is indeed inspirational. Uncle Tom’s Trail, insofar as you can consider steel stairs a trail, is a bit more challenging but offers equally impressive views. Over 300 steps built into the south wall of the canyon allow you to descend 500 feet for an excellent view of the 308 foot Lower Falls.

From the Canyon Village area, you can use the Norris Canyon Road to cut across the park to the oldest and hottest of all of Yellowstone’s thermal areas. Active for over 115,000 years, it is home to the tallest geyser in the world, Steamboat Geyser. It does not erupt often, and has been dormant for up to 50 years in the past, so don’t expect much. A bit further down the road is Gibbons Falls, and while certainly not as dramatic as the waterfalls over at the canyon, the lovely 84 foot cascade is well worth a stop.

Heading south, Midway Geyser Basin is home to one of the most photographed features in the park, Grand Prismatic Spring. It is the largest hot spring in the United States, and third largest in the world. It is named and renowned for its dramatic coloration, which is most striking when viewed from above. Surrounding the spring are microbial mats, which vary in color based on temperature gradients and season. It is certainly striking.

Biscuit basin is a small, relatively quiet area, home to several thermal pools. Living around these pools are thermophiles, microorganisms that thrive in the hot water running off the springs. The mats come in a stunning array of colors, and are absolutely memorizing.

From Biscuit Basin head back to the inn. It is an excellent time to visit the observation deck and relax while watching Old Faithful. Later, have dinner in the lodge dining room, which is a charming step back in time. Make sure to stay in the old portion of the lodge if you can. There is a newer building that is open year round, but it lacks the charm of the lodge. The rooms are basic and most have communal bathrooms, but they are impossibly charming and have changed very little over the years. The dormer windows offer views over the parking lot, to the steaming vents of Geyser Hill.

In the summer, several tours a day are offered of the inn. It covers in great detail the history of the lodge, and is full of fun facts. You should absolutely take the tour if you love historic hotels.

For those with the time, make sure to combine any trip to Yellowstone with a trip down to the Grand Tetons, or at least a drive down the John D. Rockerfeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway. More stunning scenery awaits in and around Jackson, Wyoming.

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