Vizcaya Gardens- Miami, FL

John Deering’s Gilded Age Miami mansion is absolutely lovely, and architecturally interesting. The gardens, however, are nothing short of magnificent- transcendent even. Unquestionably European in design, arranged as a series of outdoor rooms, they are perhaps the finest Italian Renaissance gardens in the United States.

Designed by landscape architect Diego Suarez and embellished by Paul Chalfin, the estate’s elaborate formal gardens took over 8 years to complete. Concerned about conservation, Deering retained much of the property’s native vegetation, including a subtropical forest and shoreline mangrove swamp. Working between those areas, Chapin created a collection of outstanding outdoor rooms, reminiscent of the great European gardens of the 17th and 18th centuries.

As with the mansion, the gardens were designed to look old, incorporating weathered coral, limestone, and statuary salvaged from European estates to achieve the desired effect, including a 1722 travertine fountain originally located on the outskirts of Rome. Attributed to Filippo Barigioni, it was purchased by Deering, disassembled and transported to Florida, where it became the centerpiece of Suarez’s Fountain Garden.

Keeping the more formal elements of the garden close to the house, Suarez’s design radiates out, and up, with the introduction of a Garden Mound at the rear of the property. Here, mature live oaks were planted, again lending the appearance of age. Crowning the mound is the magnificent Casino building, which in addition to creating visual interest, houses two rooms, and an otherworldly grotto.

The north side of the house is mostly dominated by native forest, consisting of plants and trees adapted to growing on coral rock, including several national champion trees. Here, Deering had live orchids attached to the tree trunks, creating his own tropical paradise.

Also of interest in this area is the home’s swimming pool; mostly tucked under the house, it features an elaborate domed ceiling mural by Robert Winthrop Chanler. One of only two publicly accessible sites featuring the artist’s work, conservation efforts are underway to repair damage wrought by a century of exposure to the environment, and prevent future deterioration.

Off the East Terrace lies Biscayne Bay and Alexander Stirling Calder’s elaborate breakwater, carved into the shape of a barge. Originally outfitted with trees and a flowering gazebo, the space served double duty as an event venue, hosting extravagant Gilded Age parties. As Deering believed the estate was best approached by water, as he did on his yacht Nepenthe, a bridged boat landing was also constructed. Opposite, a waterfront tea room, which has definitely seen better days.

Just as envisioned, the gardens are an escapist dream, instantly transporting you to the past. Extremely popular with professional photographers conducting elaborate photo shoots, those who enjoy solitude should arrive exactly as the estate opens, and save the house for last. While the estate has a cafe onsite for those who wish to spend the entire day exploring, Vizcaya is located only a short drive from Joe’s Stone Crab, another historic Miami institute not to be missed.