Valley of Fire State Park- Overton, NV
Valley of Fire State Park is every bit as stunning as its National counterparts. So named for its dramatic red sandstone formations, it is nirvana for fans of western landscapes. Diverse hikes reveal sweeping scenery, zoomorphic rock formations, CCC cabins, and 3000 year old petroglyphs. Plus, its only an hour outside Las Vegas, so you can finish off your day with some debauchery and a show.
Formed over 150 million years ago from great shifting sand dunes, uplift and extensive erosion created today’s landscape. Iron oxide provides the intense red color, which is occasionally overlain by a black desert varnish, composed of manganese. Frequently when you see the desert varnish, you will see petroglyphs etched eons ago by the native inhabitants.
Unlike many other parks, the hikes here are very accessible, suitable for almost any ability. Sure, there are some rock scrambles, but for the most part they are easy hikes that allow you to fully enjoy your surroundings without fear of death. You can even choose to never get out of the car, but that would just be foolish. Unless it is the middle of the summer; then by all means, remain inside your air conditioned vehicle. But for those interested in hiking, fall and spring are perfect.
Mouse’s Tank trail is very easy, and a good place to start. Located close to the visitor’s center, it is a short trail with several amazing rock formations. We had the trail to ourselves, but I imagine it can be busy during peak times.
Named for an 1890’s renegade who used the area as a hideout, the tank is a natural basin which retains rainwater. It sticks around for quite a while, and you most certainly would not want to drink it. Don’t worry, you won’t be tempted. It just looks like it is harboring cholera. The surrounding rocks however are stunning.
Valley of Fire is probably most well known for unusual erosion patterns. There are several areas in the park where this manifests itself, but perhaps the most iconic are the beehives. Wind and water has left all manner of these limestone beauties, which you can walk around, some even inside.
Another erosion based masterpiece is Elephant Rock. There is an associated short hike, but the rock itself is located very close to the park road. This area does get pretty crowded, so depending on when you go, you may not want to linger long.
Perhaps the most well known and best preserved petroglyphs in the park are located at Atlatl Rock. This is also a very popular area, and has an associated picnic pavilion, so you most likely will share the experience with many others. The etchings are very high up, so you actually have to climb open steps to an elevated platform, which will not please those with height issues. They are prehistoric drawings though, so suck it up, climb with the crowd, and gawk.
Right around Atlatl rock however is a desolate sandy corner of the park that is sparsely traveled. At first it is more akin to walking a dune, a bright red dune with all manner of snake and animal tracks. Then, following a rock scramble, the park unfolds around you. Not only are the views are stunning, I have never encountered anyone else in this area. It is one of my favorites in the park, rewarding you with excellent vistas.
Another really beautiful hike is White Domes Loop Trail. This unforgettable track takes you past fins, banded rocks, and into a small slot canyon. It is not horribly difficult or long, but is an amazingly enjoyable hike nonetheless. I have always done this hike pretty late in the day, and have had the trail to myself.
The rocks in this area are almost fluid, and lack the bright red hue of many of the others in the park. It is almost like the area has been painted in pastels. As a bonus, there are ruins from an old 1960s movie set, but before you get excited, not much survived.
Before you leave, make sure to stop off and check out the cabins constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930s. I can only imagine how exciting it would have been to stay in the park during those early days, when even Vegas was still in its infancy.
Valley of Fire is a large park, but for the casual visitor it is possible to hit all the highlights in one day. For those interested in longer hikes, you could easily spend several days here. The park itself isn’t far from the north entrance of Lake Mead, and with the historic low water levels, it is possible to drive over and hike to the once submerged Mormon Settlement of St. Thomas. The drive back through the park is a bit longer, but worth to do at least once.
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