The Willard InterContinental- Washington, DC

Sophisticated is the first word that comes to mind when I think of The Willard. Polished and gilded follow, but surprisingly not stuffy. It is a wonderfully historic hotel that manages to preserve traditions such as afternoon tea, but yet still feels comfortable. It is a rare bird indeed.

The Willard has been a Washington, D.C. fixture for over a century. The current building dates to 1901, but the hotel itself dates back almost fifty years earlier. In 1816, John Tayloe built a row of six two story houses as an investment on the corner of 14th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, on land that had previously been a farm. By 1818, the corner unit was being used as a hotel to house visitors to the still sleepy town of Washington, D.C. Over the next three decades the property was leased to several proprietors, with the entire block eventually being utilized as a hotel. Charles Dickens stayed at the property during this incarnation, and he was thoroughly unimpressed; a metal triangle under his window was used to summons servants, who apparently ignored the sound in a way that Dickens could not.

By 1847, the buildings were in a state of disrepair and the surviving Tayloes were desperate to find a tenant to profitably run the property. They found just that in brothers Henry and Edwin Willard. Immediately, the brothers remodeled the whole block, turning it into a single structure and uniting the buildings architecturally. They expanded the number of rooms, and added amenities such as dining rooms, ballrooms and parlors. In 1852, Franklin Pierce stayed at the hotel prior to his inauguration, boosting the hotel’s reputation. In 1854 the brothers signed a new ten year lease, with a rent to own provision. This turned out to be a nightmare that ultimately landed the parties in front of the Supreme Court, with the Willards emerging triumphant in 1869.

The old hotel hosted ambassadors, visiting dignitaries, and the nation’s elite. It was known for hosting elaborate balls and lavish catered events. The 1859 farewell ball for Lord Francis Napier, the British Minister to the United States, was attended by over 1800 guests, who payed an unheard of ten dollars a head and partied until 4 a.m. In 1861, Lincoln stayed at the Willard prior to his inauguration, holding meetings in the lobby. And although Ulysses S. Grant was known to drink whiskey and smoke cigars in the lobby, the term lobbyist most certainly was not coined at The Willard. Just don’t tell the hotel that.

Alas, by the turn of the century the old hotel was hopelessly outdated, and was torn down to make way for today’s beautiful Beaux-Arts masterpiece. Built in 1901, the new 12 story structure designed by famous hotel architect Henry Janeway Hardenbergh was far more luxurious than its predecessor. It was built with a steel frame and reinforced concrete base, with dormers, a curved mansard room, and bulleye windows. It featured lavish ballrooms, private dining rooms, and street level restaurants.

Along the main corridor was an elegantly appointed walkway known as “Peacock Alley,” so named for the bejeweled woman who strutted its length. An elegant bar, the Round Robin, served libations to all the notable men of the day, including several presidents. It was the place to stay and be seen in Washington. Over the years in fact, just about every president has stayed at The Willard. It survived the depression, and flourished during the war. Martin Luther King drafted his “I Have a Dream” speech here. History was made here. And then once again it fell out of favor.

Newer luxury hotels such as the Mayflower stole away business, and the downtown area declined. The death blow came in the form of the 1968 riots. Without warning the hotel shuttered in July of 1968, surprising guests and employees alike. The entirety of the hotel was offered up at a fire sale- furnishings, fixtures, marble and molding. It looked for a while the stripped old gal would be torn down. It sat sad and neglected, further deteriorating with each passing year. Fortunately, the hotel did have its champions, who lobbied for its preservation. Ultimately it was determined that the historic building could be restored for use as a luxury hotel, and efforts began in 1984 to return The Willard to its former glory.

The Willard reopened to great fanfare on August 20, 1986. Its lobby was once again grand, and drinks flowed freely at the Round Robin. Congressmen and Supreme Court Justices toasted to a job well done. Once again, The Willard became a spot for lavish parties, celebrations, and balls. Ongoing renovations have kept the old hotel relevant. The original front desk was restored in 2009, and each of the 335 rooms and 41 suites were updated in 2012.

Although we only live about 10 miles from The Willard, I couldn’t resist an overnight at the storied hotel. I was not disappointed. Our room under the eaves dripped with character. I was ecstatic to stay in a bullseye room, and couldn’t resist the urge to turn the window into a window seat. The common areas are fabulous, and there are several excellent restaurants to chose from. The French Bistro has a patio that is THE place to people watch in the summer; in colder months, the Round Robin serves an expertly made Manhattan. The bartenders are full of hotel history and are happy to share. A solid hotel all around.

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