The Glass House- New Canaan, CT

Located less than an hour from the extravagant Rockefeller and Gould estates is a completely different yet equally interesting property. Standing in stark contrast to the egregious excess of the Gilded Age, Philip Johnson’s modern masterpiece The Glass House is magnificently minimalistic. At just 1815 square feet, it absolutely proves less can be more.

Built in 1949 by eccentric modern/postmodern architect Philip Johnson, the glass and steel structure seems to disappear into the landscape, like a Special Ops agent. It is a fabulous study of angles and reflection, where the built structure is enveloped by the surrounding environment. Inspired by Meis van der Rohe’s model for the undeniably similar Farnsworth house (1950), Johnson was able to complete his project in far less time, by having himself as a client.

Characterized by floor to ceiling windows, with no interior walls, spaces are differentiated only by furniture and built in storage cabinets. A single brick cylinder, which contains the bathroom and fireplace, is the only item in the house that reaches floor to ceiling.

The living room contains several pieces of furniture from Mies van der Rohe’s Barcelona collection, including a daybed/couch (which was the production prototype), and a pair of the now iconic low slung leather chairs. Rumor has it one of the pieces sports a cigarette burn from Andy Warhol. Considering Johnson was known for entertaining, I am surprised there is only one. Also on display is a seventeenth century Nicolas Poussin painting, Burial of Phocian, which was the inspiration for the landscape design surrounding the house.

Although The Glass House is certainly the centerpiece, the property is home to several other Johnson designed buildings of note. Across a grass court from The Glass House stands its foil, The Brick House. Built contemporaneously, it contains all the systems necessary for both houses. Originally containing three guest rooms, today it houses a bedroom and a reading room. Suffering from water damage, The Brick House is closed while it awaits restoration.

A short walk through the tranquil landscape delivers you to the first of two art galleries on site. Looking more like a cold war bunker, the 1965 grass covered berm Painting Gallery building houses large scale modern pieces by Frank Stella, Andy Warhol, and Robert Rauschenberg, among others. Inside, three circular display rooms, each with a manually operating rotating rack, showcase six works, while allowing storage for up to 42 paintings. Absolute genius.

Mere steps away, just past Schnabel’s Ozymandias, is the ethereal 1970 Sculpture Gallery. Inspired by the Greek Islands, the building consists of a series of squares, set at 45 degree angles to each other, with open stairs linking levels in the five story space. With a ceiling of glass and steel, the space becomes a study in light and shadow. Impressive even on an overcast day, it is a magnificent gallery, which looks brand new following a recent restoration.

Located on the other side of the house, down a steep embankment, is a man made pond and a fabulous folly. A trick of perspective and scale, as you approach, it is revealed that the prefabricated concrete pavilion is much smaller and closer than it appears from above. Once an elegant arched structure, with gold leaf covering the ceiling, it is in dire need of a restoration.

Immediately adjacent to the pond is the Monument to Lincoln Kirstein, a thirty foot tower, meant to be climbed by those with a death wish. At the top, an inscription for intrepid guests. Built in 1985, the interactive exhibit is off limits today. Considering it was designed to impart a sense of imbalance, this is probably a good idea.

Also on the grounds is Johnson’s Studio, a one room workspace and library built in 1980. Outfitted with a fireplace, a massive skylight, and over 1400 architecture books, it is a space you may never want to leave. However, with no bathroom or water, you would eventually need to.

The final building designed by Johnson on the grounds is the Beetlejuician Da Monsta, constructed in 1995. Originally conceived to be the site’s visitor center, the modified gunnite structure is now exhibit space. The stark and stunning interior is a bit disorienting, due to the lack of right angles. Although it photographs well, it is certainly a space that needs to be experienced.

Located in a very affluent community in Connecticut, neighbors feared an increased in local traffic by those visiting the property. As such, ticket sales are limited, and you must take a shuttle bus to the property. At times, it can be incredibly difficult to procure tickets. That said, do whatever you need to do, and take the most in depth tour they offer. Although some may be satisfied with just seeing The Glass House, I can’t imagine not properly seeing the grounds, or the other buildings. And don’t skip the gift shop. It is an absolute modernist dream, and you will leave with something.

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