Salzburg, Austria
Salzburg may just be the most beautiful city in all the land. It certainly looks like something out of a fairy tale, complete with a castle perched on high. It is easy to explore on foot, and has something for everyone. Beautiful scenery, glorious gardens, amazing architecture, and charming cafes…not to mention the music. It is, in short, magical.
Settlement of the area can be traced back to Celts in the 5th Century BC; today’s city however dates to a later Roman occupation, which was awarded township status around 45 AD. Although there were periods of decline, the area has been continuously inhabited since it was founded. That means lots of history and lovely buildings. So much so, Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.
High above Old Town’s medieval alleys sits one of Salzburg’s oldest, and most recognizable structures. Festung Hohensalzburg, or Salzburg Castle, dates back to 1077, when a crude fortress was constructed for the protection of the Imperial Troops of the Holy Roman Empire. Over the centuries, the fortified area increased, growing to include ring walls and towers. It has changed very little from the 1600s, and is considered one the of the best preserved and largest castles in Europe.
Since 1892 there has been a funicular that runs from downtown Salzburg up to the fortress. Make that your first stop in town. I have said this before, if you find a funicular, take it. The views from the top are among the best in town, rivaled only by those at the modern art museum; there is even a cafe, where you can enjoy a beverage while taking in the sights. Inside the fortress is a dizzying maze of rooms. Soaring ceilings, arched stoned doors and cannon ports remind you of the structures storied past. That said, the view steals the show. From every window and terrace, the city unfolds beautifully beneath you, lapping at the surrounding mountains.
On the way down, be sure to walk. It is a bit steep, but absolutely worth it. The rooftop views continue as you wind your way down via small alleys and staircases, which as a bonus, are flanked by Baroque buildings. There are also several biergartens along the route, so by all means take your time as you descend. You are on vacation after all.
Just outside of town is Hellbrunn Palace, one of many magnificent mansions around Salzburg. If you can, walk there via Hellbrunner Allee. It is just over 3 miles, but you will likely not notice. Most of the route is along a shaded trail, at the base of the Alps. It winds past farms and mansions, and feels worlds away from downtown Salzburg.
The mansion itself is as impressive as the walk. Built as a pleasure palace in 1613, it was shockingly never intended to be a residence. Despite it’s palatial size, it was only ever intended as a day retreat, and as such, has no bedrooms. The property is dotted with whimsical fountains and water features, constructed to surprise visitors. Be forewarned, you will get wet. Which isn’t a bad thing after a long walk.
On the way back to town, make sure to swing by the Sound of Music pavilion. The original gazebo from the movie is the focus, but note you are no longer allowed to enter. Too many injuries from poorly executed reenactments of course. Nevertheless, still fun. For those looking for a more strenuous hike, head over to Untersberg, where a funicular will wisk you up into the Alps. Rest assured, there is a cafe at the top that serves a glorious grapefruit beer.
Back in town, there are no shortage of churches and abbeys to visit. You will absolutely get tired of seeing churches before you run out of churches to see. They are everywhere, and they are all fabulous. The great double domed Salzburg Cathedral and the stark white unadorned Baroque Kollegienkirche are not to be missed. St. Peter’s is the oldest, and perhaps the most ornate abbey in Salzburg. While a monastery has existed on this site since the 7th century, the current Romanesque abbey dates to 1130; it has been remodeled several times, with its current onion dome and Rococo style dating to the 1700s.
The best part of Salzburg is its size. You can absolutely explore the entire Old Town portion of the city on foot. This allows you to get lost, and find hidden gems not listed on travel apps; to discover the perfect park, to walk through a mountain tunnel, to eat in a cave. It is a city full of history, amazing architecture, and natural beauty; storied home of Mozart and the Sound of Music, as well as countless cafes and Biergartens. What more could you possibly ask for?
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