Robert H. Treman State Park- Ithaca, NY
As discussed in previous posts, Ithaca is truly and absolutely gorges. A town filled with seriously beautiful, stunning gorges, and hundreds of waterfalls. No exaggeration. Robert H. Treman State Park is home to a handful of these beauties, as well as some of the most dramatic scenery you will see in the United States. Again, no exaggeration.
Robert H. Treman was born into a prominent Ithaca family in 1858, and of course went on to attend Cornell University. After graduation, he joined the family hardware business, growing it from a small regional company to a large corporation. The family also owned several other businesses, including an iron foundry, water works, and an utility company. As many of their concerns required water, in the late 1800s they began buying up land around Buttermilk Falls for their use.
Fortunately, Treham was ecologically minded, and the land was not plundered for commercial purposes. In 1891 Treman became a Cornell trustee and worked to improve the condition of the Cascadilla and Fall Creek glens near campus. In addition to leading tours of that area, he often brought friends and family to Ensfield glen, now Treman Park. Noting the area’s decline around the turn of the century, he bought the property in a preservation attempt. Over the next several years, he set about planting over 1000 trees and building a series of walkways and bridges in the glen, before ultimately donating the land to the fledgling New York State Park System in 1920. Following his death in 1937, the park was renamed in his honor.
The geology of the area is just what you would expect in a glacial region. The gorge itself exposes about 400 feet of alternating sandstone and shale layers, dating back 370 million years to the Devonian period. The 2.25 mile gorge trail takes you down into the glen, where you hike alongside Enfield Creek, and its 12 discrete cascades. It is not a particularly difficult hike, but there are a lot of stone steps, that do get very slippery when wet. Like Bon Jovi.
The sinuous path the creek has cut though the rock is just breathtaking, as is the stark contrast between the pale gray of the rock, and the bright, verdant green of the surrounding ferns and mosses. It is a lush, almost tropical feeling environment, cool and misty. Only diffuse, dappled sunlight penetrates the gorge, which is a blessing in the summer.
As you work you way down the gorge, in addition to the natural beauty, make sure to appreciate the walkways and bridges. They blend in wonderfully with the natural rock, and lend almost a fairy tale air to the already magical glen.
The arching stone bridge is absolutely enchanting, and is the perfect place to take in the dramatic deep gouges in the stream bed below. Lovely, lovely, lovely.
Moving along the gorge trail you will find the park’s most popular falls, as well as a cliff staircase with fabulous views. The first fall feels like a true cascade; not very tall, but wide, with several different distinct ledges, tumbling into a lovely pool. Just beyond the pool, the water takes a steep plunge off the edge, and down Lucifer Falls.
Lucifer Falls is without a doubt the park’s most dramatic waterfall. At 115 feet, it is one of the largest falls in the region, and is certainly impressive. There are several overlooks in this area, which offer excellent photo opportunities, but one of the best vantages is across from the falls, which captures not only the waterfall, but the stone walkway.
For those who have more time to explore, there is an old mill just past Lucifer Falls. If not, there is a Rim trail that will take you back to the parking lot, albeit without the stunning scenery. We got to the park very late in the day, and I would either suggest that, or very early. It was virtually deserted as we worked our way down the gorge, allowing us to truly enjoy the trail. Other area trails we visited were packed, and far from pleasant. I imagine the narrow stone walkways at Treman, bound by the gorge walls, could be easily overwhelmed at prime time. Crowds aside, the park is absolutely magical, and should not be missed.
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