Painted Churches of Texas- Schulenburg, TX
You don’t have to be religious to admire the artistry of the Painted Churches. Even viewed through secular eyes, they stand as a beautiful testament of the faith of the early Czech and German settlers of this region. If you are religious, you’ll love them even more.
Okay, so not all of these churches are actually located in Schulenburg, but they are close, and Schulenburg has proclaimed themselves their official home, so who am I to argue. You can arrange a tour through their Visitor Center, or if you prefer to explore on your own, there are several maps online. For those short on time, there are about 5 churches in the area of Schulenburg that can be explored in a few hours.
While the first Catholic church to be built in the newly founded railroad town of Shiner dated back to 1891, that structure was first damaged by a tornado, then outgrown by the parish. The current church was constructed in 1920, and was considered the finest Gothic structure between San Antonio and Houston. Built in the Romanesque Revival style, it features a vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows from Munich, Germany, buttresses, an octagonal spire, and that magnificent painting. Believed to date from a 1954 restoration, the painted was done by Edmond Fatijo, a German trained artist, who specialized in painting church interiors. The focal point is considered to the be the alter mural, which depicts Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane.
Built in 1895, Saint Mary’s is one of the oldest painted churches. Located in Praha, the Czech name for Prague, this stone Gothic Revival served the early Czech settlers of the area. Gottfried Flurry, a fresco artist, adorned the walls and vaulted ceiling with pastel angels, ferns, and flowers. The painted vegetation lends almost a tropical feel to the church. The end result is nothing short of ethereal; light and airy, and decidedly beautiful.
The dreamy blue of the ceiling stands in contrast to the gleaming wood floor and pews. The intricate statuary and chandeliers stand in contrast to what is an otherwise almost simple church, although that may be a stretch considering the delicate pillars and vaulted ceiling.
Saint Mary’s in High Hill dates from 1906, and is one of the larger of the painted churches. Its intricate faux painting, ornate design, and stained glass windows have earned it the title “Queen of the Painted Churches.” It was also the only church in which I encountered a legitimate crowd, even on a Wednesday afternoon.
Constructed in 1906, and painted in 1912, Saint Mary’s served a mostly German and Austrian community. It is another brick Gothic Revival church, characterized by its vaulted ceiling, faux marble pillars, and intricate designs, which were painted on canvas, then affixed to the church walls.
The stained glass windows at High Hill are absolutely stunning. Donated by the parish, they originally adorned a much smaller church, constructed in 1876. When the present Saint Mary’s was built in 1906, the magnificent windows were incorporated into the design, and moved to the new church.
St. John the Baptist in Ammannsville wins the award for unluckiest parish. The original 1890 church was destroyed by a hurricane in 1909, while the intricate replacement burned down eight years later. In its place, a much simpler, unadorned church was constructed in 1919. Painted a dusty rose, it is known as the “Pink Church.” It location, off a rural road, surrounded by farms, could not be more peaceful.
The white wood building, built in the Carpenter Gothic style, gives off a comfortable and unassuming air. Impossibly quaint, the lack of pillars creates an open, airy space. It may not be the flashiest of the painted churches, but it may be the homiest.
Finally we have Dubina, which is the oldest Czech settlement in Texas. Settled in 1856, the first church in town was built in 1877. The same 1909 hurricane that destroyed Saint John the Baptist down the road also destroyed Dubina’s church, but unlike Ammannsville, Dubina’s church was spared when a fire destroyed most of the town in 1912. In 1952, the decision was made by the church to whitewash all the original paintings, as it was thought they were distracting. Sad but true. Gone was the original blue ceiling, the angels, and the stars. People were forced to pay attention. Just kidding. They just slept, and leafed through the hymnals.
By the 1980’s, the church was in need of repairs, and it was decided to restore it back to its original form. Using stencils, volunteers from the community returned the church to its former glory. Back came the color, the six point stars, the angels, and the vines. The end result almost has a Greek or Mediterranean feel. It is a simple, light filled church today, which is only truly open to guided tours and for church services. An iron gate in the vestibule keeps miscreants out, while still allowing you to peer through the bars into the cheery church. Considering the rural nature of the community, this seems strange, but some people can’t be trusted I suppose. Regardless, it is a beautiful church, a peaceful setting, and worth the stop even if only for a quick peek.
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