Oatlands Plantation- Leesburg, VA

Not far from the nefarious reaches of suburbia, Oatlands stands as a reminder of Virginia’s agrarian past. Not all of that past is pleasant, but it is important to learn about, and the remaining house and gardens are a must see for historic architecture enthusiasts.

Not far from the Capital Beltway exists a lovely property owned by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Located at the end of a tree flanked dirt drive, Oatlands waits to greet you. The Visitor’s Center is located in the former carriage house, and is a lovely building in its own right. Built in 1903, it is worth a few minutes to poke around the tack room and check out any exhibits they have on display. You will leave armed with a property map, and a time for a guided house tour.

Walking from the carriage house to the mansion you will pass several outbuildings, including the Bachelor’s Cottage, which is in the process of being restored, and therefore closed to the public. Dating to 1821, it has been expanded over the years, and was typically used to house boarders or guests.

Just around the bend from the Bachelor’s Cottage stands the main attraction. The mansion is a striking Federal/Georgian style home, which later was renovated to the Greek Revival that stands before you today. It all started in 1798, when George Carter inherited 3408 acres of prime Virginia farmland from his father. After setting up an operational wheat plantation, construction was started on the house in 1804. Original plans indicate it was to be built in the Federal style, consisting of a central block, with symmetrical bays to the east and west, topped with a copula.

Construction chugged along for many years, with several interruptions; the War of 1812 along with its resulting recession and trade embargo with Britain brought about a complete stop to the project. By the time George Carter returned his focus to the mansion in the 1820s, his vision as well as popular tastes had changed. What started life as a Federal style mansion would now be converted to a Greek Revival. Stucco covered the bricks and a grand portico with a parapet wall was added to the front. A terraced formal garden was constructed adjacent to the house, and a grand estate was born.

The mansion weathered the Civil War unscathed, and after the home was inherited by Carter’s son, it was sold outside the family. Oatlands was purchased by the founder of The Washington Post as an investment, who never lived on the property, and changed nothing. He in turn sold it to William Corcoran Eustis in 1903, who used Oatlands as a country estate. The neglected gardens were returned to their former grandeur, and the home was used for entertaining Washington’s elite, including Franklin Delano Roosevelt. It remained in the Eustis family for over 60 years, at which point ownership was transferred to the National Trust.

While I would love to share photos of the house’s interior, they are forbidden. This might be an insurance requirement, or an attempt to protect artwork. Either way, you will just have to take my word that the inside is as impressive as the exterior. The docent will guide you through the many generations of the family, using portraits as guides. While this sounds mind numbing, it is actually fascinating, with family members figuring prominently in several wars and significant historical events. Fine antiques and memorabilia fill the house, including several pieces owned by George Washington.

At the end of the tour you are encouraged to explore the gardens. And you should. Over 4 acres of flowers, ornamental shrubs, statuary and fountains provide a lovely verdant retreat. Shade is plentiful, and benches are provided throughout the space. Not only was I the only one on the tour during a midweek visit, I had the garden to myself, and it was a fabulous oasis of calm. Just remember to bring OFF.

For those who have more time to explore, there are barns, outbuildings, a greenhouse, and remnants of a cobblestone road located on the property. You can easily spend several hours wandering the grounds of Oatlands, and enjoying every minute of it.

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