Mark Twain House- Hartford, CT

I love Mark Twain. Or rather, I suppose I love Samuel Clemens, because I find the man more interesting than his books. Certainly someone who didn’t keep his opinions to himself, he is known for his biting wit, and being a bit of a curmudgeon. Which are definitely qualities I appreciate. He is also known for his extensive travels, which include everywhere. Really. He is an interesting character all around, who built an equally interesting house in Hartford, Connecticut.

By the time the grand Victorian Gothic mansion was constructed in 1874, Clemens had already lived a full and exciting life. Born into a struggling Missouri family, he was forced to leave school early to seek employment. By age 18, he left the South, working as a printer in several Northern cities. By 21, he was back, and trained to be a steamboat pilot. Although it was his dream job, his career was cut short by the outbreak of the Civil War, which brought civilian traffic to a halt on the Mississippi. Still seeking his fortune, he packed up and headed West, in search of gold. When that didn’t pan out, he began to write; or rather, he began to publish his material in earnest under the name Mark Twain. Fortunately, this worked out for him.

Soon, Clemens was known as one of the most famous writers in America, and he married a young, very wealthy woman. In fact, it was his wife’s money that built the fabulous mansion in Hartford, which was a publishing center at the time. Designed by Edward Tuckerman Potter, a New York architect, the house was definitely meant to impress. Built in 1874 for around $45,000, the 11,500 square foot home boasted 25 rooms, including 7 bathrooms with flush toilets and hot and cold running water, gas lighting, wood paneling, and hand carved ornamental detailing throughout. It included a grand staircase and conservatory on the first floor, as well as a billiards room and office for Clemens on the third.

Outside, the mansion was equally as impressive. Built of patterned black and vermilion brick, and accented with wood cornices and gables, it is a study in angles and elevations. In 1881, just a few short years after the mansion was completed, Twain published several bestsellers, and immediately used the money to update the already magnificent house. This included enlarging the entrance hall, and hiring Louis Comfort Tiffany to decorate the walls and ceilings in all public areas. He may had stated disdain for the rich, even coining the term Gilded Age to describe the extreme excess, but his actions certainly suggested he was among their ranks. Nevertheless, the workmanship is exquisite, and certainly worth whatever it cost.

Unfortunately, Clemens made several poor investments, lost a significant amount of money, and was forced to declare bankruptcy. The family moved to Europe in 1891, which at the time had a lower cost of living. He spent the next several years giving lectures around the continent, then wrote a book about the experience. He would never return to live in Hartford; the grand mansion was sold in 1903. In later years, the home served as a school, an apartment, and a public library. It was nearly razed in 1929, but fortunately was saved and restored by a historic preservation society.

In 2003, a very modern visitors center was constructed, featuring exhibit space, as well as a movie by Ken Burns. There is also an excellent gift shop, where you can buy just about anything with a Mark Twain quote splashed across it. There is also a Lego version of Mark, if you fancy a selfie. They have several different tours each day, including living history tours, led by actors in period clothing. I had Lizzie Wills, the gossipy parlor maid, who remained in character throughout the tour, sharing anecdotes about the family. Interesting. Unfortunately, no interior photographs are permitted, which is an absolute shame, because it has one of the most beautiful staircases I have ever seen. The wallpaper in the recently restored Mahogany Room is also worthy of capturing; although not original to the house, it was designed by Candace Wheeler, a friend of Twain, and partner of Louis Comfort Tiffany. The bee and spiderweb design is absolute genius, and gorgeous. In fact, its an all around stunning house. For architecture aficionados and fans of Twain alike, its truly not to be missed, and worth a visit to Hartford.

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