Jekyll Island Club- Jekyll Island, GA
Jekyll Island Club is truly a one of a kind Grande Dame. A vision of Southern beauty and grace, she will have you from the moment you first glimpse the iconic turret. The grounds perfectly compliment the hotel’s Victorian architecture, from the live oaks draped seductively with Spanish moss, to the lush lawns that run from the sheltered porches to the banks of Jekyll Creek. It is immediately apparent why this was a get away for the wealthiest families of the nineteenth century, who could have gone anywhere.
Founded in 1885, the Jekyll Island Club served as a private recreational club for America’s elite. Or rather, the most elite of the elite; the crème de la crème if you will. Named as the most exclusive and inaccessible club in the world in 1904, its members included J.P. Morgan, William Rockefeller, Joseph Pulitzer and William K. Vanderbilt. Clearly it would be a tough crowd to please, but the Queen Anne style clubhouse, designed by Chicago Architect Charles Alexander, did just that. Completed in 1888, its unique turret, extensive verandas, intricate oak wainscoting, leaded art glass windows, and 93 fireplaces impressed even the most fastidious robber baron.
Fleeing brutal Northern winters, wealthy industrialists flocked to the Georgia barrier island via private rail cars and personal yachts. Indeed, there was an unofficial competition to see who would arrive in the most impressive vessel. Of course there was. Once they arrived, members and their families passed the days hunting, taking carriage rides, attending garden parties, and later golfing. Each day was capped with dinner in the formal dining room, where the titans dressed to impress, dined elaborately, and discussed how to make yet more money. I jest. That would have been unseemly. They would have waited until after dinner to discuss their financial empires.
As nice as the clubhouse was, if your family was going to join you, you would need more room. Starting in 1888, several members constructed their own cottages adjacent to the club, large enough to house both their family and staff, in style. Examples of these cottages remain dotted across the hotel property. Some offer guided tours, while others contain beautifully appointed guest rooms. The 1904 Italian Renaissance Cherokee Cottage is one such example, as is San Souci, built by J.P. Morgan, and considered one of the country’s first condominiums.
Indeed, the club was the site for all sorts of firsts, including the first transcontinental telephone call from the president of AT&T to no other than Alexander Graham Bell. Thomas Watson and President Wilson were also on the line. Following an economic panic in 1907, a clandestine meeting was held at the club, including several influential bankers and Senator Nelson Aldrich, which culminated in the Aldrich Plan, the basis for the Federal Reserve Act, which established the Federal Reserve System. The meeting was later described in great detail by no other than Bertie Charles Forbes, in his new magazine.
However, all good things must come to an end, and the Great Depression was one heck of a buzz kill. Even those who could afford to maintain their membership now saw it as an extravagance. In an attempt to save the club, more reasonably priced associate memberships were offered, but this just prolonged the suffering. World War II delivered the death blow to the club, with 1942 acting as the club’s final season. Following the war, the State of Georgia purchased the island, and opened it to the public as a state park. The clubhouse was turned into a resort, which unfortunately failed miserably. By 1971 the clubhouse was shuttered, and sadly the good times were really over for good. Not really. It was a beautiful building, and a perfect location, so it was going to make someone money. It was restored and opened under private ownership, so fortunately we can all visit this lovely historic property and enjoy the good life, if only for a night.
Today, the hotel is just about perfect. The common areas are amazing. The grounds are magical. I wish I would have known about the cottage rooms, because the standard annex rooms are functional but standard. They are original, and do come with non-functional decorative fireplaces, but they have very bad bathrooms, and horrible tasting water. Actually the whole island has horrible tasting water. Fill your water bottle up in the lobby, or you will suffer the consequences. Really.
That being said, even the annex has lovely original wood floors, beautiful casement windows, and wonderful stairwells. So much character, so much history.
The dining room is lovely, and will make you feel as if you are dining with the Vanderbilts. It has high ceilings, pillars, a fireplace, and a live piano player. If it looks familiar, you may have seen it in The Legend of Bagger Vance. Or you are the reincarnation of J.P. Morgan. The lobby bar also should not be missed. In addition to making a mean Manhattan, it stands before a graceful staircase leading to the second floor and a lovely fireplace flanked with club chairs, complete with a boar’s head trophy.
If you are are not feeling fancy, there is a lovely pub downstairs, which has also has a patio, that serves the same food as the main dining room, just a bit more casually.
Speaking of outside spaces, be sure to take advantage of all the wonderful porches. The hotel is a wonder of elevations and sitting areas, complete with padded rockers. You can sit out front, and watch croquet games. You can sit out back, and watch sailboats glide along Jekyll Creek. You can sit in the courtyard and people watch. So many beautiful spaces, so little time.
The pool is small, but still lovely, and has a fabulous bar and grill. Do not miss their burger or their Pina Coladas. Also, you must rent a bicycle and explore the island. It is amazingly reasonable for half a day rental, and will be something you never forget. On weekends there is also a sunset dolphin watching cruise that should not be missed. We did miss it, and took a mid-afternoon voyage, still lovely, still saw dolphins, but no drinks and lots of kids. Also do not miss the Jekyll Island Arts Association, located in the Goodyear Cottage. Not only is it a lovely building, you will buy something. The pieces are stunning, and will fit any budget. I came home with a $10 bowl which is far nicer and cheaper than anything I have ever seen in the Sundance Catalog. And I love Sundance. As a bonus, the cottage is also beautifully restored.
The island is its’ own wonderland, which I will cover separately. For any fan of historic properties, you will love the Jekyll Island Club. Love it. Just expect the worst smelling tap water you have ever encountered. Everything else will be just about perfect.
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