Hotel Paisano- Marfa, TX
The Hotel Paisano is the living breathing embodiment of Old Texas. From the mounted Longhorn on the wall, to the intricately tiled floor, it is everything you would imagine a historic Western hotel to be. It is a hotel that transports you when you walk through the door, conveying a true sense of time and place.
El Paisano was one of five hotels developed by El Paso Businessman Charles Bassett in the early 1900s, designed to bring tourism to West Texas. Designed by the famous architectural firm Troust & Troust in the Spanish Revival style, ground was broken just days before the 1929 Stock Market Crash. Not deterred by these events, construction continued and the 35,000 square foot, $175,000 hotel opened in June of 1930. Built in a U shape around a central courtyard, the hotel boasted 65 rooms, each with a private bath, along with 12,000 square feet of retail, restaurant, and office space. It was known as “the most elegant hotel between El Paso and San Antonio,” although I am not sure how many hotels actually existed between those cites back then.
In the early days, most customers were cattle ranchers, coming to town to sell their herds. The railroad also brought in tourists, seeking the benefits of the dry desert air, and mild winters. The hotel was the social hub of Marfa. During World War II, officers at the near by Marfa Army Field held parties in the ballroom, while regular Saturday night dances were held in the Courtyard.
1955 was a big year for the Paisano. Warner Brothers came to town to shoot their epic movie Giant, and the stars of the movie, Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson and a young James Dean all checked into the hotel. You can still stay in these suites today, and the hotel maintains a room of memorabilia from this time. This is definitely a significant part of the hotel’s history.
While the addition of a pool and a diving board in 1960 seem to promise good times ahead for the hotel, it was not meant to be. Business declined, and the hotel barely limped into the 1970s. The hotel was eventually sold to a Houston developer, who partially converted the hotel into timeshare condominiums. Although shares were actually sold, by the turn of this century the business was abandoned, the structure started to deteriorate, and the property was foreclosed by the county.
The derelict hotel was dramatically purchased in March of 2001 at a tax auction held on the courthouse steps, reportedly for $185,000. The slow process of renovation was started, which culminated three years later in 41 restored rooms and suites, a ballroom, retail space, and a courtyard restaurant. They did an absolutely wonderful job retaining and restoring the original architectural details that make this property so unique.
Today the tile floors shine and the courtyard fountain flows. It is a welcoming space indeed. True to form, this was a last minute stop for us, so we ended up with the only remaining room, a small historic queen. No Mezzanine room, with its private patio and individual fireplace for us. Nevertheless, it was a quaint room, with French doors leading to a Juliet Balcony overlooking the courtyard. Be warned, there is no elevator, so if stairs are an issue, ask for a lower level room. And book more than a few hours in advance.
Except for a few times a year, Marfa is a quiet town these days, mostly known for its offbeat art installations and mystery lights. It is however not without its charms. With its grand courthouse, and fabulous restaurants, it is absolutely a town worth traveling to, and you will definitely want to stay at the Hotel Paisano.
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