Hotel Galvez- Galveston, TX

Built in 1911, Hotel Galvez is a bit younger than the other classic Grand Dame seaside resorts; a Baby Grand perhaps. Though wildly popular in the early 20th century, tropical storms and changing local conditions have challenged the viability of this Spanish Revival beauty several times over the past century. Luckily, like Galveston itself, it has persevered, and stands as an elegant reminder of the island’s more glamorous past.

In the 19th century, Galveston was one of the largest cotton ports in the nation, with a thriving economy. By the 1870s, the mild weather and pristine powder sand beaches were attracting visitors from all over the South. Grand hotels, bath houses and amusements parks were soon constructed, transforming the port city into a premiere beach resort. If only the weather had cooperated.

On September 8, 1900, the Great Galveston Hurricane made landfall, devastating the island. With a death toll of at least 8000, it is the deadliest national disaster to strike the United States. The barrier island was decimated by 120 mph winds, an unforgiving 15 foot storm surge, and catastrophic flooding. Over 3600 homes were destroyed, only leaving the solidly built mansions of the wealthy, and The Strand’s houses and commercial buildings, which compromise Galveston’s historic district today.

Recovery from the storm was slow, with new commercial development shifting to Houston. Following the completion of the Houston Ship Channel, all hopes of Galveston regaining their former prosperity seemed to sail away. But all was not lost; they still had their beautiful beaches and mild winters, and after the construction of the Seawall, they set about to reclaim their former glory.

Opened in June of 1911, at a cost of 1 million dollars, the Hotel Galvez was an elegant landmark at the east end of the Seawall. Thoroughly modern and luxurious, it was billed by Hotel Monthly in 1912 as the “best arranged and most richly furnished seaside hotel in America.”  They were also known for their roller chairs, which apparently made it possible for those too lazy to walk to be rolled around the lobby and across the grounds in large, wheeled wicker chairs. Seriously, this was a very popular thing. Despite this, the Hotel Galvez flourished through the jazz age, and the big band era, hosting legendary dances and parties. Life was good in Galveston once again.

By the 1940’s the allure of the original beach town began to fade, but thanks to gambling, Galveston was more popular than ever. It was illegal of course, but this was the era of mob bosses, so it hardly mattered. Galveston transformed into an Atlantic City of sorts, and the Hotel Galvez was wildly popular with wealthy socialites and celebrities, including Duke Ellington, Sammy Davis Jr. and Frank Sinatra. Mob boss Sam Maceo, who owned the Balinese Room and the Hollywood Dinner Club, even lived in a penthouse at the Hotel Galvez during this time, because when you’re a mob boss, you can do that. But the Texas Rangers eventually crashed that party, or at least moved it along to Las Vegas, and the Galvez was left to reinvent itself once again.

Today, the Hotel Galvez is fresh off an 11 million dollar renovation. The lobby and common areas are absolutely stunning. The original tile floor shines, and the inviting lobby retains many of the hotel’s original features. There is a fabulous exhibit in the basement containing historic photographs as well as items from the hotel’s past. A beautiful salt water pool beckons these days, which is far more inviting than the Gulf waters.

I have to admit, the rooms at the Hotel Galvez are nothing special; disappointing even. Which is unfortunate, but true. Most have a Gulf View, but there are no balconies. Historic elements have largely been erased, but sadly the popcorn ceilings remain. There was nothing wrong with the room per se, it was clean and comfortable, but largely without character. That said, the common areas are so nice, that it is worth a stay should you find yourself in Galveston. At least go have a drink in the bar. Galveston may be a bit rough around the edges, but they have an impressive historic district, with over 60 buildings listed in the National Register of Historic places- which is amazing considering the island’s history.