Fairmont Banff Springs- Banff, AB

Some hotels are so fabulous, they are destinations in themselves. Unique properties with outstanding architecture and character, that you would happily travel to the ends of the earth to explore. Fairmont Banff Springs is one of these properties; fortunately, it is also located in one of the most beautiful parks on the planet, which provides even more incentive to book a stay.

Banff Springs is a product of the golden age of railroad travel, one of several luxury hotels constructed by the Canadian Pacific Railway across the Rocky and Selkirk Mountains to increase ridership numbers on western routes. Hopeful to draw European tourists to Canada, CPR’s general manager William Cornelius Van Horne commissioned American architect Bruce Prince (father of etiquette icon Emily Post) to build a stylish wooden shingled structure at the confluence of the Bow and Spray Rivers.

Completed in 1888, the original shingle and stone building, which cost $250,000 to construct, included 100 rooms centered around a five story octagonal rotunda. Several additions were made to the structure over the years, including an eleven story stone and concrete tower designed by Canadian Pacific architect Walter Painter in 1914, which added 300 guest rooms, and transformed the hotel into the tallest building in Canada.

In 1926, architect John Orrock was retained to further expand and renovate the property; he increased the height of the tower, added two wings, and altered the roofline to today’s Chateauesque appearance. Unfortunately, during the process, a fire destroyed the original wood structure designed by Bruce Price. Damage was limited however, and the expanded space was completed in 1928.

The hotel that emerged was a series of exquisite rooms and halls, ready to welcome well heeled travelers not willing to rough it while exploring Canada’s Wild West. One of the most impressive spaces is Mt. Stephen Hall, named for the first president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, George Stephen, a native of Banffshire, Scotland, for which the town of Banff is named.

Renovated following the 1928 fire, the baronial hall boasts Bedford limestone floors, an oak beam ceiling, stone walls, and large leaded glass windows featuring the coat of arms for the Dominion of Canada, flanked by those of the Canadian Pacific president and general manager. The adjacent Oak Room also contains original stained glass, as well as an operational wood burning fireplace, and stately oak paneling.

Across from Mt. Stephen Hall is a substantial stone spiral staircase, leading to the Alhambra foyer. Made of Tyndall stone, a type of dolomitic limestone quarried in Manitoba, the stairs contain several visible fossils of ancient marine creatures, dating back 450 million years. Of a more recent vintage, lovely Tiffany lampshades line the walls.

At the top of the stone stairs is the elegant Alhambra room, complete with bronze doors, which once served as the hotel’s formal dining space. In the foyer, above the original fireplace, a relief of the Santa Maria sails stormy seas. Adjacent to the space is the timeless stone arched Spanish Walk, which overlooks Mt. Stephen Hall. In these spaces, it is easy to imagine yourself transported to the past.

At the end of the Spanish Walk are various public rooms, all with magnificent views of the Palliser Range and the Bow Valley below, including the dramatic River View lounge, with it’s stunning stone fireplace. This portion of the building contains some of the hotel’s most storied spaces, including the Cascade Ballroom, the Conservatory, and the Oval Room, which legend holds to be haunted by a bride who fell down the sweeping stairs to her death.

Banff Springs fared very well over the years, even managing to stay open throughout the Great Depression, unlike many other grand hotels of the era. In 1939, it hosted King George VI and Queen Elizabeth during their Royal Tour of Canada, which speaks to its level of luxury. However, tourist restrictions and labor shortages during World War II caused the hotel to close its doors from 1942-1945.

Over the years, the hotel remained relevant by constantly improving the amenities they offered, including the addition of indoor and outdoor pools, a Stanley Thompson designed golf course, and a luxurious spa. In 1968, the hotel was winterized, allowing it to remain open year round.

While the Castle rooms have been updated several times over the years, they manage to retain their classic character. We were upgraded to one of the hotel’s Studio rooms- which was like winning a jackpot.  From it’s quirky shape and original details to its magnificent mountain views, it is the most memorable hotel room I have ever stayed in, bar none.

The town of Banff itself is shockingly crowded, teeming with tourist activity. Endless buses unleash a sea of people at regular intervals, choking the sidewalks, shops and restaurants. Far from relaxing, after one night in town, I was ready to leave, despite the spectacular surrounding scenery. However, Banff Springs has a completely different feel. While busy, the hotel is so large, with so many options, you’ll never feel the crush of the crowds. With countless lounges and restaurants spread throughout the building, no one space was ever overwhelmed, even when bus tours arrived.

For those that enjoy historic hotels, it doesn’t get much better than Banff Springs. A never ending maze of fabulous rooms and amazing architecture, it is an absolute dream to explore. But be warned- it is a gateway hotel, one that will surely have you seeking out other Canadian Pacific hotels by the end of your stay.