Dumbarton Oaks Gardens- Washington, DC

Dumbarton Oaks is just about the perfect appellation for a grand estate. It conjures images of an imposing manor house, surrounded by a leafy, verdant oasis. This is exactly what awaits you on the other side of Dumbarton Oaks substantial, yet ornamental, iron gates. And while the Colonial Revival mansion is magnificent in its own right, it is the garden that steals the show.

The present estate traces its royal roots all the way back to 1702, when the land, part of the Rock of Dumbarton grant, was given to Colonel Ninian Beall by England’s Queen Anne. The first house was constructed on the property around 1801, which still exists as the central block of the current house. The Orangery followed in 1810. Orangeries, similar to greenhouses, were wildly popular during this era, and were a symbol of wealth and prestige. No self respecting country estate would be found without one.

At Dumbarton Oaks, the Orangery walls are covered by a large creeping fig, which has been bringing the outdoors in since 1860. Large arched windows, a brick floor, and cafe tables create a perfect space for entertaining. In addition to adding architectural interest, the Orangery at Dumbarton also acts as the entrance to the estate’s grand garden.

The current garden dates to 1920, when Mildred and Robert Bliss purchased the already historic home. They engaged architect Frederick Brooke to renovate and enlarge the house, and increased the estate land holdings to 54 acres. Mildred Bliss then enlisted landscape architect Beatrix Farrand to design a series of terraced gardens to rival anything across the pond. Working together, the two conceived a master plan that included intimate terraces close to the house, opening to larger natural areas towards the rear of the estate.

Exploring the garden is very much like wandering the halls of The Greenbrier; around every corner there is something new to discover. Fountains, lawns, statues, and garden ornaments are used throughout the grounds to create distinctive spaces within the context of the larger garden, like rooms in a house.

The terraces gradual give way to larger spaces, such as the Ellipse, where a double row of American hornbeams encircle a graceful 17th century Provençal fountain. The tree branches have been intertwined, and the foliage meticulously clipped into an aerial hedge.

The rear of the estate is also home to the cutting and kitchen gardens, which are awash with color. A bit wild, these areas are a wonderful contrast to the manicured terraces above, and are literally abuzz with life. Several stone outbuildings anchor these spaces; they are right out of the pages of a fairy tale, and I absolutely want one of my own.

The far rear of the estate contains several sitting areas hidden among groves of trees and rambling vines. It has a very natural and private feel to it, vastly different from the manicured upper terraces. This area follows the natural topography of the land, and gently slopes down to Rock Creek below.

Heading back towards the mansion, the grand lawn of the North Vista presents itself. The perfect location for a garden party or a croquet game, it not only has a wonderful view of the lower gardens, but of the stately house itself. The only thing missing is the champagne.

Any one of these distinct areas would make for an amazing garden. Combined, they create without a doubt one of the greatest estate gardens in the United States. Bliss and Farrand created a pocket of peacefulness in the city you will not want to leave.

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