Danube Cruise- Melk, Austria

To be clear, I am not speaking of the Danube cruises advertised on PBS, prior to Downton Abbey. I am sure those are wonderful if you are in your twilight years, and need travel to be made as easy as possible. However, having been at museums when those groups arrive en masse, I can attest it is a disruptive nightmare, from which you can only beat a hasty retreat. So, no, not that. Thankfully, there is a wonderful 2.5 hour cruise, which you can conveniently book through the railroad. Same sights, no crowded chaos. Perfect.

Start your adventure in Vienna, taking an early train to Melk. When you purchase your tickets at Wien Westbahnhof, include the option to return partially by river. This will get you on a river cruise at Melk that will drop you at Krems, where you can pick up a return train to Vienna. There are several departing cruises each day, but plan to spend several hours exploring Melk. The highlight is the Benedictine abbey, which towers over the town and river, in all its dreamy yellow striped glory.

Although an abbey was founded at this site in 1089, today’s Baroque beauty dates to the early 1700’s. Designed by Jakob Prandtauer, the abbey is home to a magnificent frescoed church, as well as a school and impressive library, which contains medieval manuscripts.

The grand and gilded abbey church however remains the main attraction. Damaged by a fire in 1947, it has now been restored back to its former gleaming glory. Frescos by acclaimed Austrian painter Johann Michael Rottmayr adorn the soaring ceiling, while those by Paul Troger adorn the alter. It is nothing short of magnificent, and is remarkable even in Austria, home of many spectacular kirches.

The town itself is also impossibly picturesque, so be sure to take your time exploring, stopping for lunch at one of the many cafes. This is an excellent time to start sampling wines from the surrounding Wauchau Valley, if you have not done so already. Known for their Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, the valley is considered one of the best wine growing regions in the world.

Once you are done exploring, work your way down to the river. Don’t forget to look up and get a parting view of the abbey from below. Stake out a table on the boat’s open air deck, and order a glass of wine; its time for some good old fashioned sight seeing. From this vantage, although exposed to the sun, you will miss nothing.

Almost immediately Schönbühel Castle appears in the distance, standing watch over the Danube. Built on bedrock 130 feet above the river, the imposing fortress has occupied this spot since the 12th century. Ownership changed hands several times over its long history, including a 400 year stint in the Starhemberg family. It was partially rebuilt and renovated in 1821, and remains privately owned; today, it stands as a silent sentinel, allowing tourist to admire its lovely onion dome from afar.

Shortly after Schönbühel slips behind you, a much more ruinous castle appears perched high above the river. Aggstein Castle also dates to the 12th century, but has not fared as well as its neighbor. It was owned by a series of robber barons, before being sacked during the first Turkish seige of Vienna in 1529. It was rebuilt in 1606, but after several owners, it was left to deteriorate. Structural improvements were made in the early 2000s, making it possible to visit and even rent the castle.

Next up, a stop at the impossibly quaint town of Spitz, home of several photoworthy churches, fancy hotels, and terraced topography. Let this serve as reminder you are traveling through the Wauchau Valley, and you should absolutely be drinking a crisp Gruner Veltliner.

Just after Spitz is a large bend in the river. Upon taking that turn, you are greeted by perhaps the most iconic structure along the Danube. I know I certainly have never seen a commercial for a European river cruise that did not include Dürnstein Abbey. The pastel blue tower is immediately recognizable, and without a doubt one of the most beautiful abbeys in Austria. A former Augustinian Monastery, the building dates to 1410. Significant modifications were made in the 1700s, when the iconic blue baroque tower was added. Also of interest, high above the town are the ruins of Dürnstein Castle, where Austrian Duke Leopold V famously imprisoned England’s Richard the Lionheart in 1192. Although the castle has not been habitable since the late 1600s, you can hike to the ruins, which are open to the public.

Alas, Krems is just around the corner, where those returning to Austria via train disembark. It is a lovely old town, which you can take in while walking to the train station. Make sure you know the train schedule, or you just might find yourself stranded in Krems, which would not be the worst thing in the world.

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