Cuyahoga Valley National Park- Peninsula, OH

When you think of America’s National Parks, you probably imagine the big ones. The dramatic Western parks, with their canyons, arches and geysers; home to ancient redwood forests, towering monoliths, and rugged wilderness. You probably are not thinking of a sprawling stretch of land between Akron and Cleveland. Nevertheless, that is where you will find Cuyahoga Valley National Park. And while it may be more modest than some of its siblings, it is a verdant oasis, full of wildlife, waterfalls, and dramatic rock formations.

Unlike many other National Parks, Cuyahoga is an open park, and no admission is charged. It consists of a collection of once rural communities, a historic train depot that is now home to a scenic railroad, stunning geology, and of course, the Cuyahoga River. Once a prehistoric sea, the land here has been transformed many times over by the forces of nature, each era leaving its mark on the topography and geology.

One of the most popular hikes in the park is the short but scenic 1.5 mile Brandwine Falls Loop, which brings you up close to the 65 foot Brandywine Falls. Carved by the rushing water of the Brandywine Creek, here, erosion resistant Berea Sandstone overlays softer shales, creating a lovely cascading fall. Be warned however, the falls themselves are just a short walk from the parking area, along a boardwalk, which guarantees this area will be busy throughout the day. You cannot go wrong by making this your first stop; like any other park, you are well served to arrive at dawn. While it may not be Grand Canyon busy, it still attracts a crowd.

A short drive from Brandywine Falls is the Boston Store Visitor Center, an 1836 warehouse located on the Ohio & Erie Canal. Before being converted into today’s park building, the structure functioned as a rooming house and Post Office. It’s a great place to grab a trail map, as well as park your car. From this lot, you can easily jump on the canal tow path, or the Buckeye Trail, which leads to Blue Hen Falls. Make sure to peek in the restored 1946 garage located adjacent to the Visitor Center, which frequently houses art exhibits.

Although the Buckeye Trail is a wonderful way to get to Blue Hen Falls, there is a faster route, that provides very easy access; it is a mere .5 mile loop, so this area also tends to be very crowded. Getting here early is just about your only option. This is another instance where more resistant sandstone protrudes over softer shale. The fall itself is only about 15 feet high, and the stream is often little more than a trickle, but it is very relaxing. That is, if you get there early enough.

Next, head over to Peninsula, a small town located inside the park boundary. It is home to several restaurants, art studios, and the scenic railroad train depot. Today’s Cuyahoga Scenic Railroad was once The Valley Railroad, which opened in 1880. It was a popular line, with depots located in Everett, Peninsula and Boston; however, by the 1930s, the automobile rendered the rail line obsolete. Rail service stopped, and the depots were shuttered. Everett’s depot was converted to a garage and chicken coop, which seems like a very odd combination. Peninsula’s depot was demolished, and Boston’s turned into a residence. When the erstwhile Boston depot was threatened with demolition in 1967, it was moved to Peninsula, near the site of the original depot. This building is now the depot for the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad.

If you have the time, you can jump on the train for a round trip excursion through the park, or take your bike on the train and ride back via the Ohio & Erie Canal. It is even possible to take a kayak aboard the train, if you fancy a trip down the actual canal. The train is extremely popular with leaf peepers in the fall, so be sure to get your ticket well in advance.

After poking around Peninsula, head over to The Ledges, the oldest and most spectacular portion of the park. The area itself actually consists of some of the youngest conglomerate bedrock in the region, at just over 300 million years old, but it was the first portion donated to the state for use as a park, making it also the oldest. In 1929, Cleveland businessman Hayward Kendall donated 430 acres in the Ledges area, as well as a trust fund for its maintenance, with the stipulation it would be perpetually used as a park. It was here, in the 1930s, that the Civilian Conservation Corps built several parks shelters and an elaborate stone staircase.

The hike itself is a relatively easy 2.2 mile loop, although there are definitely drop-offs you need to be aware of. Indeed, at the trail head, several deep fissures appear, like large rips in the earth, which you will want to avoid falling into. The whole area is a geologist’s dream, full of giant, jointed, sandstone boulders. If only there was a waterfall, the trail would be perfect.

As it is, the trail is absolutely magical- dappled and drowsy, lined with hemlocks and large moss covered boulders. For most of the trail you are looking up at magnificent rock formations, so do not skip the trail and head straight to the overlook. The beauty of this trail was entirely unexpected; without a doubt, it is one of my favorite National Park hikes.

Right before the end of the trail, up a steep incline, is the Ledges Overlook. It is unquestionably one of the most spectacular vantage points in the park. From the exposed outcropping, there are unobstructed views across the entire valley. Facing west, it is a very popular spot at sunset.

Cuyuhoga is a wonderfully diverse, easily accessible park. You can hit the highlights in a day, but it requires several trips to explore all 32,572 acres. It is a place of stunning beauty, not entirely expected in Ohio. Although it may not be one of the systems most popular parks, it should be.

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