Bandon Dunes- Bandon, OR

Bandon Dunes is a bit of a departure from my usual resort destination. For starters, my motto is the older, the better. Structures built sometime between the Victorian and Edwardian eras are ideal, but I am flexible. I also prefer balmy weather and a large palm fringed pool, preferably one which serves scratch made Pina Coladas. None of these things apply to Bandon Dunes, yet it is still an amazing destination. Spartan and utilitarian, it exists for a singular purpose: Golf.

There is one reason to visit Bandon Dunes, and it is to golf. It is considered one of the top golf destinations in the country, and for good reason. None of these reasons will involve the accommodations, the food or the agreeable weather, but that is okay. They do one thing, and they do it extraordinarily well.  The resort’s golf courses are outstanding; they are stunningly beautiful, exceptionally challenging, and always in immaculate condition.

To be honest, there is nothing wrong with the accommodations. We stayed at the Inn, and it reminded me of a ski lodge. A bit bare and nothing fancy it suits their target audience, male golfers, well. It is a place to sleep and shower. There is no pool, and only one hot tub (awkwardly located next to the cigar bar) for the entire property. Again this is fine. You know why you are there, and it isn’t to lay by the pool.

The resort was the brainchild of successful businessman Mike Keiser, an avid golfer and greeting card tycoon. Keiser’s status allowed him to travel the world and play the best courses money and connections could offer. This not only sparked an interest in golf course architecture, but the notion that world class golf should be available to every golfer. Not limited by club membership in any event. Certainly limited to those that can afford to pay $270 for a round of golf. However, I digress.

After his initial foray into golf course construction in Michigan was successful, Keiser set out to develop an authentic links style golf course in the United States. After visiting several potential locations, he climbed to the top of a windswept bluff in Bandon, Oregon, and immediately knew he had his site.

To bring his vision to life, Keiser hired David McLay Kidd, a Scottsman, to design the first course at Bandon. His goal was to create a true golf experience, one devoid of gimmicks and invasive landscaping; a course that embraced the natural terrain, making only minimal modifications.

On May 19, 1999, Bandon Dunes opened, and was instantly praised. Unfolding on a bluff high above the Pacific, the course offers everything links style golf should: dunes, undulating fairways, ever present wind, and for a good portion of the year, rain. Even on a nice day, conditions can change rapidly.

Keeping with the spirit of providing a traditional golf experience, Bandon is a walking course. Given the undulating nature of the terrain, this can be a challenge for some, even with the use of a caddy. Caddies are a big thing at Bandon, and to many people a huge part of their golf experience. Not only will they carry your clubs, but their knowledge of the wind and the greens can substantial lower your score. Or not, if you can’t do what they tell you. Either way, it is really a personal decision, and they don’t pressure you one way or the other like some other top resorts.

Whatever you do, don’t rent a rickshaw. That is the amusing name they give to their pull carts, and they are a menace. You are much better off just carrying your clubs if you don’t get a caddy. First, the wheels are HUGE, and pulling them up some of the sandy trails is virtually impossible. Second, when the wind kicks up, it can and will blow the rickshaw down the fairway. And as amusing as that is, you must then retrieve it. Then pull it against the wind. Just carry your clubs.

Several other courses have followed Bandon Dunes on the site over the years. Pacific Dunes, a Tom Doak design, opened on July 1, 2001; an inland course followed in 2005 with the Ben Crenshaw designed Bandon Trails. In 2010, a second Doak design, Old MacDonald opened, followed by the Par-3 course Bandon Preserve in 2012. In 2014, a Doak designed putting course opened, The Punchbowl, and everyone who ever wished for a drink holder at each hole cheered.

With so many excellent courses in one place, everyone dreams of at least 36 holes a day. If not 54. Not only is the replay rate somewhat reasonable, but if you manage to squeeze a third round in, it is free. So of course this seems like a plan, until you experience the wind. Seriously, it is no joke. On a gusty day, even inland Bandon Trails offers no reprieve. A single day of 36 holes was enough for us. We have heard this from several other people, so it is worth noting.

In the end, we played Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes, Bandon Trails and the Punchbowl. They were all magnificent. Bandon was my favorite, but they all have their charms. Keiser has realized his goal of creating a world class golf destination, that retains a very natural feel. The views from the course are picture perfect. Conditions are superb. The restaurants are not spectacular, but you won’t care.

The weather in Oregon is rainy. If you want to escape true links style golf, and remain dry, aim for July or August. It might still be cold and blustery, it was for us in August, but it was thankfully dry. Several times a marine layer rolled in, momentarily recreating a Scottish gloom, but thankfully it did not stick around long. For those of you that don’t mind rain and cold, absolutely play off season- it is much cheaper, and no doubt much less crowded.

On a final note, I would not travel here as a non-golfer or with a non-golfer. I would not bring children. It is the ideal spot only for golfers. Also, many have stated that only serious, low handicap golfers should play these courses. That is not true. As long as you can play relatively well, you can and should play these courses. They require thought and strategy, but they also allow those who may lack distance an excellent opportunity for a low score. And while most of the other golfers at the resort were male, I did not feel uncomfortable at all. This resort has few rivals in the United States, and is certainly worth the trip to the difficult to reach location.

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