Arches National Park- Moab, UT
Most National Parks are ridiculously crowded in the summer. Hikes seem more like death marches, as the volume of visitors surpasses most trail capacities. However, desert parks are decidedly quiet this time of year. Yes, they are hot. Yes, they are unforgiving. But for those willing to set out at dawn, you will be rewarded with an intimate experience, almost impossible at more hospitable times of the year. Arches National Park is a perfect example; late August finds this wonderland almost abandoned. Just remember sunscreen, long sleeves, and plenty of water, or you’ll never live to post your pictures.
At over 76,000 acres, and 2000 sandstone arches, the park is immense. Consisting of high desert, this portion of the Colorado Plateau is particularly scenic. While exploring the back country could take months, many of the park’s most recognizable landmarks can be accessed via the paved park road, or short trails. Which you will appreciate in the summer.
Almost immediately after entering the park, you are greeted by the stunning sandstone fins of Park Avenue (top). If you arrive early in the day, this is an easy two mile hike, and a great place to start your park exploration; there is little shade however, so it will be brutal in the afternoon. From this spot, some of the park’s most magnificent monoliths are on display, including The Organ, The Tower of Babel, The Three Gossips, and Sheep Rock.
The area of today’s park was once the site of an ancient sea, which covered the land 300 million years ago. When the water evaporated, the salt remained; over the ensuing millions of years the salt bed, which is thousands of feet thick in places, was covered with eroded debris. Early Jurassic desert conditions led to the deposition of Navajo Sandstone, followed later by Entrada Sandstone. Over time, additional sediment was deposited on top of the sandstone, but has subsequently eroded away, leaving the sandstone exposed. As these layers are acted upon by the forces of nature, fins are formed, followed by arches.
Erosion is in fact responsible for all the fun formations in the park. One of the most iconic is Balanced Rock. Just a short distance from Park Avenue, the 128 foot formation seemingly defies gravity. At least for now, as we all know that is a battle no one wins. An Entrada Sandstone bolder sits atop a pedestal of mudstone, each eroding at their own rates. Beauty ensues.
Taking the first turn off the main road brings you to the Garden of Eden. It is certainly no lush paradise, but it is possible and probable there is a snake or two lurking about. The area derives it name from two of the sandstone spires, which are said to resemble Adam and Eve. Regardless if you see the original sinners or not, there are some excellent vistas in this area, including a sweeping view of The Windows, as well as Turret Arch.
This area is also home to the famous Double Arch, which is accessible via a very short hike. This is an area that is packed during peak season, but was all ours in August. I won’t lie, it was hot. But not unbearable. The double sandstone arches are porthole arches, and unlike many of the other features in the park, were formed from atmospheric water erosion. It is an absolutely beautiful area to explore.
Given the heat, we skipped the hike across slickrock to Delicate Arch, but did visit the viewpoint. It is a lovely arch, as evidenced by its appearance on Utah’s license plate, but certainly not the most delicate in the park. In fact, compared to some, it is downright husky. It is however 60 feet tall and one of the most recognizable geologic features in the world, so hike out to it if you can. Like other park arches, it is an Entrada Sandstone formation, created from a weathered fin. Before acquiring its current name, it was known by the hilarious moniker “the Schoolmarm’s Bloomers,” which shockingly did not stick. Perhaps because we no longer have Schoolmarms.
Moving deeper into the park rewards you with sweeping landscape views of the valley. In the aptly named area known as Fiery Furnace, shade is at a premium. Take whatever you can find. Any hikes should be done in the cooler months, or at dawn.
Past Fiery Furnace, in the far yet still accessible reaches of the park, are several great loop trails. The first major arch in this area is Skyline Arch, which perched on a ridge, dominates the landscape. Immediately adjacent you will find the Devils Garden, which has an impressive collection of fins, and is home to the largest concentration of natural arches in the world. There is an 8 mile loop trail that travels to 7 arches, however, the majority can be seen by turning it into a 5 mile in and out hike by skipping the Private Arch portion of the trail.
The Devils Garden loop trail is one of the parks most impressive, and should not be missed. If pressed for time, the shorter 5 mile hike delivers the most bang for your buck, making it possible to view Tunnel Arch, Pine Tree Arch, Landscape Arch, Partition Arch and Navajo Arch in just a few hours. While we probably have a few million more years to appreciate Tunnel Arch, Landscape Arch is not long for this world, so plan to make that arch a park priority.
Driving around the park at sunset is truly magical, and worth the return from town if you have already finished hiking for the day. The setting sun works well with the red rocks, and will produce some of your best park pictures. Although large in area, the park is easy enough to navigate in a few days, and is in close proximity to the other Mighty 5 Parks if you have the time. If not, that is just another reason to return.
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