Achill Scenic Drive- Achill Island, Ireland
Sometimes you feel like you have reached the end of the earth. Not in a metaphorical sense, but the actual physical end. A location so isolated and beautiful it stays with you for a lifetime. Achill Island is one of these places. A place that seems timeless, bringing you back to the island’s very formation. The Achill Scenic Drive is a nail biter, but one which rewards with you unending Atlantic views and breathtaking scenery.
Achill Island in County Mayo is located off Ireland’s west coast, connected to the mainland at the village of Achill Sound by the Michael Davitt Bridge. It’s a fun little swing bridge, which pivots, allowing ships to pass. Based on a Calatrava design model, it reminds me of driving through a whale’s rib cage. Once you cross the bridge, you pick up Atlantic Drive, and your journey begins.
The island has a population of 2700, but at times you may see more sheep than people. Human settlement of the area dates back 5000 years, so along your drive you will encounter countless historic markers. There are remains from Neolithic settlements dating to the 3rd or 4th century, as well as evidence of Bronze Age settlements, which just blows this American’s mind. The island consists of mostly peat bog, so it is a treasure trove for prehistoric artifacts.
History aside, the area is just geologically stunning. The basement rocks are the oldest in Ireland, dating back over 600 million years, to the Pre-Cambrian period. The peaks consist mainly of quartzite, while schist with peat overlay dominates the lowland valleys.
Following Atlantic Drive along the side of Croaghaun mountain, the quartzite cliffs give way to Keem Bay. Located on the western end of Achill Island, Keem Beach is a quite, secluded spot. Eroded quartzite makes for soft sand, and the horseshoe bay makes for calm waters. The cliffs here are said to be Europe’s tallest, rising over 600 meters from sea level. There are several hikes in this area, for those who want an even better view.
The road in the area of Keem Beach is not one you are likely to ever forget. A mere ribbon of pavement, with hairpin turns and roaming sheep, it is breathtaking in many respects. I know I gasped more than once. Certainly invigorating. As you wind down Atlantic Drive, the cliffs of Dooega are visible in the distance.
Returning from Keem Bay, make sure to swing down and visit the old fishing village of Dooega, located on the south side of the Island. It is filled with quaint houses, a pub, and a somewhat pebbly beach. It is also a conservation area, so there are birds a plenty waiting to be watched.
This is truly one of the most beautiful places on earth. It is a place that feels as old as time, making it a perfect escape from the modern world.