The Benson Hotel- Portland, OR
Grand and stately. The Benson is just one of those historic hotels that feels serious. Surely due in no small part to all that magnificent wood paneling in the lobby, which brings to mind banks and courtrooms. It is however in no way stuffy; it is a wonderfully preserved piece of the past, and the perfect place to stay in PDX.
Built by pioneer lumberman Simon Benson in 1913 at a cost of $1 million dollars, the Benson has always been fancy pants. Conceived as a high end establishment, no expense was spared during the construction. Designed by architect A.E. Doyle, and modeled after Chicago’s famous Blackstone Hotel, it was built in the French Second Empire Style. A massive copper mansard roof with pediment dormers topped the 12 story, 200 room red brick and terra cotta building. Inside, the hotel included modern conveniences such as private baths, room telephones, and electric lights.
The lobby was resplendently paneled with now extinct Circassian walnut woodwork, imported from Russia, and featured crystal chandeliers and marble floors. Ornate plaster designs covered the ceiling, including egg and dart and acanthus. What it probably did not originally include was a watering hole; Benson was a staunch tee-totaler. In fact, he championed water drinking, and donated the first twenty 4-spout water fountains to Portland in 1912/13. Forty of these fountains can be found around town today, with one in Japan. Thankfully, temperance didn’t take; these days, there is a lovely hotel bar, which serves obscenely good Manhattans.
Lest you thing poorly of the straight laced Simon Benson, he did also donate much of the land along the Columbia River Gorge to the city of Portland, including Multnomah Falls and Crown Point, for the construction of the Columbia River Scenic Highway. A highway that would lead to his newly constructed Columbia Gorge Hotel of course. This beautiful Spanish Revival hotel still exists today, and while I did not visit, I certainly hope to in the future.
Unlike many other early Portland hotels, the Benson has always remained open, and has been well maintained. Every sitting president from Taft to Obama visited the hotel, in addition to a long list of celebs. The hotel received a makeover in 1980, followed by a $17 million dollar restoration in 1991. So…little remains historically in the rooms themselves. They are comfortable however, and have great city views.
The hotel today is in a fabulous location, making it possible to walk most of the city. It has changed with the times, and been rewarded with longevity. It may not have the largest lobby, but it is still certainly one of the loveliest, and should be on the list of any historic hotel fan.
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