Mission San Xavier del Bac- Tucson, AZ

I love many things about the West- first and foremost, mild winters. However, toward the top of the list are all the beautiful missions. Follow the trail of Spanish explorers, and you will find them. California has some of the most well known; San Antonio has them in droves, including the famous Alamo. Tucked away in Tucson however is one of the most beautiful of them all, Mission San Xavier.

Located about 10 miles outside of Tucson, the mission was founded in 1692 by Padre Eusebio Kino, a Jesuit who died before a church was even constructed on the site. It was not until 1756 that a simple adobe structure was built to serve as the mission’s first church. However, less than a decade later, in 1767, the Spanish King expelled all Jesuits from New Spain, and the church was abandoned. This was actually part of a much larger movement, The Suppression of the Jesuits, which while fascinating, is far beyond my scope here. In short, the wealth and power of the Jesuits scared others who had wealth and power.

Not long after the Jesuits were cleared out, the Franciscan’s took over the missions of New Spain, including San Xavier. In 1776 Father Juan Bautista Velderrain, a Basque Franciscan arrived, and within a few years started construction on the present church. In 1783, the good Father borrowed enough money from a local rancher to hire the Mexican architect Ignacio Gaona to construct one of the finest churches in the land.

Construction lasted for over a decade, primarily preformed by the Tohono O’oodham. Work finally stopped in 1797, not because the church was finished, but because funds were exhausted. Although parts of the church were incomplete, including the east bell tower, the church’s interior was resplendently decorated with fine paintings and sculptures.

All was well for the beautiful baroque church for several decades, until 1821, when the mission became part of the new Republic of Mexico. Mexico did not offer material support to the missions, and by 1837 San Xavier’s last resident missionary left the house, or church more precisely. Duties were assumed by secular clergy until the mission became part of the Territory of Arizona; in 1859 it was added to the Santa Fe Diocese. A priest was assigned once again, and needed repairs were made.

In 1868 Tucson got its very own Diocese, and the church once again started offering regular services. A school was opened, and in 1913 Franciscans returned to the mission, were they remain to this day. After several restorations, the mission is considered one of the finest examples of Spanish Colonial Architecture in the United States. The artwork is exquisite, and the grounds are a mixture of desert botanicals and religious icons. The adjacent hill offers stunning views of the mission. The day we were there, an approaching storm added a layer of moody atmosphere to the mission’s beauty.

San Xavier not only has a fascinating history, it is obscenely photogenic inside and out. And for those passing through, the grounds offer ample opportunity to get out and stretch your legs before returning to the car.

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